Propshaft vibration and droning on a Toyota Mark II, Chaser, Cresta or Crown almost always trace back to a worn centre bearing, usually finished off by tired universal joints upstream. FEBEST now produces centre bearing 0158-008 for these models, so the fault can be fixed without buying a complete propshaft. Here is what these cars are, where their drivelines suffer, and what the new part covers.
The Toyota Mark II and its platform siblings are genuine legends, and not only in Japan. These powerful sedans have a permanent place in the heart of anyone who likes getting a car sideways, and they arrived here in numbers through the used Japanese import trade, particularly in New Zealand.
Which cars are we talking about?
There is no need to go deep into Japanese Domestic Market history. Anyone already in the scene knows the range of right-hand drive models well, and for newcomers a short overview will do.
First and foremost this is the Toyota Mark II, and specifically its last three generations, the 90, 100 and 110 series bodies. In a sense the model is a classic, and those last generations are the high point of the powerful Japanese sedan at the end of the nineties and the start of the 2000s.
The family nickname did not come from nowhere. Besides the Mark II itself, it takes in two other well-known models, the Chaser and the Cresta. Both are essentially the same car: the Chaser in a sportier specification, the Cresta in a more luxurious one. Technically they are nearly identical, differing only in trim and some exterior details.
One more relative, of slightly nobler blood, is the Toyota Crown. The Crown and Crown Majesta are business-class sedans, outranked in the Toyota line-up only by the imperial Century. The early 2000s Crown had a great deal in common technically with the Mark II family, so it can loosely be counted in, even though its design leans closer to the solid German executive cars of the day than to the brash Japanese sedans.
What makes them technically interesting?
So we have four muscular Japanese sedans from the early 2000s: a period not yet ruined by marketing departments, when engineers could still make the decisions.
Why are the Mark II and its relatives loved? Honestly, first of all for the JZ engine in all its forms. From the modest by today’s standards naturally aspirated 1JZ-GE, at 180 hp or around 132 kW, up to the 280 to 320 hp 2JZ-GTE, roughly 206 to 235 kW, which can be taken to 500 and even 1,000 hp. A phenomenal engine, and nobody builds them like that any more.
The rest of the car is no worse. The suspension is grippy and firm in moderation, yet durable enough to survive rough surfaces, which matters on the patched country roads and gravel that these cars meet here. The most common gearbox is a simple and almost indestructible automatic. The driveline comes two ways: classic rear-wheel drive for the old school, or all-wheel drive set up in a particular fashion. The AWD versions of this family split torque with a rear bias of 70 to 30, an unusual calibration that says exactly what it is for.
Where does the driveline suffer?
Twenty years on, the Mark II and its family remain solid, reliable cars. Corrosion and crash damage do not spare a Japanese classic, but these vehicles were designed with a serious safety margin.
Even so, some assemblies suffer more than others, and on cars that invite aggressive driving, the driveline goes first. The weak points on our heroes are the axles, CV joints and propshaft. The deeper the JZ tuning and the bigger the torque figures, the higher the chance of tearing an axle. And do not forget the welded rear differential, a practice far more common among owners than Toyota’s engineers ever intended. With a welded diff, the axles take the full punishment, because there is no differential action left to absorb the speed difference between the rear wheels in a corner.
CV joints are the first to suffer. Selecting the right one is not a simple exercise, given the dozens of original Toyota part numbers involved. The FEBEST catalogue makes that easier: we have several CV joint options and half shafts ready for these models. Symptoms are worth knowing before the joint fails outright. A clicking noise on lock at low speed points at a worn outer joint, while a shudder under acceleration from a standstill usually points at the inner joint.
For a complete replacement, separate CV joint boots and driveshaft oil seals are also available. Boots matter more here than most owners realise. A split boot loses its grease within a few hundred kilometres and lets in grit and water, so a joint that was healthy at the start of a track day can be scrap by the end of the month. Check both boots on every axle whenever the car is on stands, and replace clamps rather than reusing them.
The second problem area is the propshaft. Universal joint spiders do not always survive serious torque. Worn spiders develop shock loading and vibration, and that vibration quickly kills the centre bearing as well. Check for play by gripping the propshaft near each joint and twisting: any perceptible movement at the spider means it is done.
Safety note: a welded differential changes the handling of a road car significantly and is not a legal modification on public roads in most cases. In New Zealand, modifications of this type require LVV certification, and in Australia, state engineering approval under the relevant ADR framework. Keep welded diffs for closed circuits. When working under the car, use rated stands on level ground, chock the wheels and mark the propshaft flanges before separating them so the assembly goes back in its original phase.
The new FEBEST part
For a long time we had nothing suitable to offer owners of these Japanese legends. That has now been corrected, and we present the FEBEST propshaft centre bearing, part number 0158-008.
This drive shaft centre bearing fits the Toyota Mark II in 100 and 110 series bodies, along with the related Cresta and Chaser. It also suits the Toyota Crown of the same period, meaning the 150 series body.
The new bearing resolves two common symptoms on ageing Japanese cars: propshaft vibration and abnormal running noise. Depending on how worn the old bearing is, the vibration may be felt most sharply at a particular speed, either pulling away or under acceleration. The noise can range from a light rustle to a deep drone.
With a new FEBEST centre bearing you can forget about both and load the propshaft properly again in power slides and hard starts. The part is simple to install and removes the need to replace the complete propshaft. Its specifications fully match the original, and the quality is backed by our warranty of two years or 60,000 km.
Frequently asked questions
What are the symptoms of a worn propshaft centre bearing?
Vibration through the floor at a specific speed range, a hum or drone that changes with road speed rather than engine speed, and a clunk when taking up drive. On a Mark II family car the vibration is often worst pulling away and under hard acceleration. Perished rubber around the bearing carrier confirms it visually.
Can I replace the centre bearing without replacing the whole propshaft?
Yes, that is exactly why the part exists. The centre bearing is a serviceable item within the propshaft assembly, so replacing it costs a fraction of a complete shaft. Mark the flanges and the shaft halves before dismantling so everything returns in the same phase, then have the shaft balanced if vibration persists.
Does a welded diff destroy axles faster?
Yes. With no differential action, the inside and outside rear wheels are locked to the same speed, so cornering forces the difference through the axles, CV joints and tyres instead. Expect shorter CV joint life, more boot damage and more shock loading on the propshaft, particularly on grippy surfaces.
How do I tell a CV joint noise from a wheel bearing noise?
A CV joint clicks rhythmically on full lock at low speed, while a wheel bearing hums or growls constantly and changes tone when you load the car in a corner. CV noise is also usually accompanied by grease thrown around the inside of the wheel arch from a split boot.
Are parts still available for these JDM models here?
Yes, and better than they used to be. Aftermarket coverage of the Mark II family has improved considerably, which matters given how many of these cars arrived as used Japanese imports in New Zealand and later in Australia. Cross-reference by chassis code rather than by model name, since specifications vary between JDM variants.
Should I replace driveshaft seals at the same time?
If they show any weeping, yes. Replacing oil seals while the axle is already out costs almost nothing in extra labour, and a leaking seal contaminates the CV boot and the surrounding suspension rubber. Fresh differential oil after the job is cheap insurance on a car that gets driven hard.
Leave a Reply